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Ironic, or Just Sad













Having clicked somewhere, sometime, I now get emails from Move To Amend, a group trying to "get money out of politics." You can read that phrase at least a couple of ways, but what they mean is not to wring cash from politics, but to eliminate the influence of money in elections.



Sadly, the solution is to, uh,...raise money. Will it work? Not unless they raise a bunch. True, it can take a 3 to 5-fold advantage in evil money to win over for-the-general-good money, but as soon as it becomes a money race, the poor are at a disadvantage. Sure, Move To Amend is after a multitude of small donations, but all it takes is a few super-rich guys (like, Sheldon "Drop a nuke in the Iranian desert to show them we mean business" Adelson) to wipe out the advantage. Play the money game against plutocrats, and you'll probably lose.



Alternatives? I got none. Our country's education policy over the past generation or two has dumbed down then population to the extent that we're exceedingly unlikely to vote in out own commoner interest, against the oligarchs. Revolution? Unlikely, and unlovely if it were to happen in a country so saturated with guns and fundamentalism. It's a sad state we're in.




Park Plans Controlled Burns in Cades Cove

Great Smoky Mountains National Park fire management officials plan to conduct a series of controlled burns in Cades Cove. Weather permitting, burn operations could begin Monday, November 4, and may continue intermittently through mid-November. Managers plan to burn several fields totaling approximately 400 acres.




The selected fields will be burned as part of a cost-effective strategy to prevent the open fields from being reclaimed by forest. These seasonal, controlled burns help perpetuate native herbaceous species that provide high quality cover and foraging opportunities for a diversity of wildlife including deer, turkeys, and ground nesting birds.



“By conducting controlled burns, we are able to maintain the openness of the cove to preserve and maintain its historic character while also reducing non-native species,” said Fire Management Specialist Dave Loveland.



The Park contracts to mow about 1,000 acres of fields that are clearly visible from the Cades Cove Loop Road annually. Other fields that are less visible from the loop road, totaling around 1,500 acres, are kept open by burning or mowing on a three year rotation.



The loop road and historic structures will remain open to visitor use, but brief delays and temporary closures of side roads and trails may occur to ensure public safety during burn operations. Park staff will be present to answer questions during operations at overlooks and parking areas.



Visitors should expect to see fire activity and smoke during controlled burn operations. Fire managers ask that motorists reduce speed in work zones, but refrain from stopping in the roadways. If smoke is present, roll your windows up and turn on your headlights.



For more information on the use of prescribed burns in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies












Last Shot. October 2013, lifted from loureed.com

Flags at US Government facilities were ordered flown at half-staff today. Officially, this commemorates the recent death of Tom Foley, former Speaker of the US House of Representatives.



Un-officially, let it mark the death of Lou Reed, representative of the avidly un-official.




Do Yosemite In One Epic Hike

Did you know that you can do one hike that encompasses nearly all of Yosemite’s iconic sights? This epic 12.6-mile hike includes a full view of Yosemite Falls from the only place in the park to see both the upper and lower falls in their full glory. You’ll also see El Capitan, Half Dome, Illilouette Fall and Nevada Fall.




The hike tops out at Glacier Point, the spot first made famous by the photo of John Muir and President Theodore Roosevelt standing together with the Yosemite Valley in the background. The hike also finishes with a trip down the famous Mist Trail where you’ll pass over Vernal Fall.



This epic one-way hike begins with a climb up the Four Mile Trail , and then travels back to the valley via the Panorama Trail , and is a must bucket-list item for every hiker.







Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


License Plate Funds Help Celebrate Friends’ 20th Anniversary

Don’t worry about sending a gift of platinum or china, you can celebrate Friends of the Smokies’ 20th Anniversary by putting a Friends specialty license plate on your vehicle. Each year, when you purchase or renew your Friends of the Smokies specialty plate, $31 of the $35 fee goes toward supporting Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP).




The State of Tennessee has just released third quarter contributions with $114,012 donated to Friends of the Smokies from specialty plate sales. Third quarter sales are the highest of this year, bringing total specialty plate income to over $388,000 in 2013. These contributions will help fund programs throughout the national park like managing bears, supporting the hemlock preservation, and educating schoolchildren.



“Our East Tennessee communities were greatly impacted during the government shutdown, and GSMNP was not exempt from the strain. With the peak of fall leaf color, October is the Smokies’ busiest month. It goes without saying that contributions from specialty license plate sales matter now more than ever to help the Park recover from this difficult time, “ explains Friends of the Smokies President Jim Hart.



To help support GSMNP, you can purchase a Friends of the Smokies specialty license plate now, even if your current plate is not expired. Go to your Tennessee County Clerk’s office or click here . If you already have a Friends specialty plate, please continue to renew your registration. For more information, please visit www.FriendsOfTheSmokies.org or contact Jim Hart at Friends of the Smokies, 865-932-4794.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


The Mountain: My Time on Everest

You could say there are two books in The Mountain: My Time on Everest. There’s chapter one, and then the rest of the book.



I have to say that I really struggled with the first chapter of The Mountain for some reason. To me it seemed unfocused and lacked flow. Author and world-class climber Ed Viesturs kept interrupting the narrative of the story of his first climb on Mt. Everest with anecdotes from other climbs and climbers, and from my standpoint, completely disrupted the flow of the read. I must confess I almost threw in the towel at that point.




Once I got past that first chapter, however, there was a noticeable difference in the flow and readability of the book.



Although Viesturs never intended to split the book into the two parts described above, he did intend to split it in another way. The book’s chapters alternate between his own personal experience with the mountain, and an historical overview of climbing on Everest. Viesturs discusses some of the early British attempts on the mountain, including George Mallory’s three expeditions. Subsequent chapters provide overviews of Edmund Hillary’s first summit, Reinhold Messner’s first Everest summit without bottled oxygen, the fatal debacle of 1996, as well as the first American summit in 1963, which included the daring attempt by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld to scale the unclimbed West Ridge. Viesturs also discusses the highly controversial Chinese expedition of 1960 when one climber purportedly took his boots and socks off in order to gain traction up the Second Step - only a couple hundred feet below the 29,035-foot summit!



Viesturs also lays out his own personal history on the mountain, having made 11 attempts, and reaching the summit on 7 of those occasions. He provides insights into his first climbs as a guide, his inclusion in the 1990 international Peace Climb, his role in a couple of film making expeditions on Everest, as well as the compelling story of how his climbing buddy almost died as a result of a mucus plug.



Although the vast majority of the book was an interesting look into the history of the world’s highest mountain, there were a couple of occasions where Viesturs left his readers hanging. For example, in one case he mentions the “mysterious” death of Chantal Mauduit while she was in her tent at 21,500 feet on Dhaulagiri in 1998, but he provides no other details on why this was a mystery.



In 1997 Ed climbed Everest as part of a research team to find out what happens to the minds and bodies of climbers at extreme altitudes. However, he didn’t mention any of the scientific findings from this project.



I was also baffled by a passage regarding the 1960 Chinese expedition. Although the evidence is pretty overwhelming that the Chinese lied about their first summit, Everest historian Walt Unsworth still concluded that the Chinese story may have been factual. Viesturs states that he’s puzzled by this conclusion, which he absolutely should be. However, in the very next paragraph, Viesturs says, “It’s within the realm of the conceivable, as Unsworth states, that they did indeed make the first ascent of Everest from the north in 1960”.



Okay, so these might be a little bit nitpicky, I’ll agree. But overall The Mountain is a really good read, especially for those looking to discover a broader perspective on the history of Mt. Everest.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Hunting Season? Your Dog Needs "Isa-tai"

Does your dog go into the woods during hunting season? Does he dart off the trail, refuse to come to the whistle, and then you find him gulping fat and guts where someone field-dressed a deer or elk — no doubt thinking that bears or coyotes would clean up the pile?



Does he then get diarrhea or, twenty-four hours later, throw up a mass of fat the size of both your fists together and stand over it growling because he thinks that he is going to re-eat it?



Most of the time, your dog eats food out of a sack, supplemented by whatever he can steal off the kitchen counters. He lacks the right blend of beneficial intestinal bacteria for digesting elk guts, hair, hide, etc.



He needs Isa-tai!*



Here at Hunt-Pro Labs, we start with the fresh feces of wild Wyoming wolves. We culture the bacteria and package it in clean, odorless capsules. A short course of Isa-tai and your dog will be able to digest everything that he finds in the woods, short of Amanita muscaria.**



He'll be a happier dog, and you won't have to clean up messes!



Isa-tai, for dogs who run a little wild!




* Isa-tai was a Comanche warrior active in the 1870s on the Southern Plains. His name translates to Wolf Shit, although an alternative translation is wolf's (or coyote's) vagina. Anyway, the name is a tribute.


** For that you want milk thistle.


National Parks Epic Challenge: Jimmy Chin on Grand Teton

The National Park Foundation is publishing a series of excellent videos they call the "National Parks Epic Challenge".



In this video, world-class climber, skier, and mountaineer Jimmy Chin scales Grand Teton and then skis down, showing why he is one of the most skilled and fearless adventurers on the planet. Jimmy has circled the globe as an elite athlete, explorer, photographer and filmmaker, but his home is in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, near the stunningly beautiful Grand Teton National Park. The majestic Teton Range is ideal for rock climbers and ski mountaineers, and the park protects a diverse array of wildlife, including herds of buffalo and elk. Jimmy talks about visiting the National Parks as a child, and how he felt when he first saw the Tetons at age 18. He is one of the few people in the world to have climbed and skied Mount Everest from the summit.





Jimmy Chin in Grand Teton: National Parks Epic Challenge from National Park Foundation on Vimeo.







Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


HaPpY HaLlOWeEn

HaPpY HaLlOWeEn

Post 400: What Bots Like











Top hits this week.



October is when I typically start getting visitors here looking for information about heatilators, the passive convection fireplaces that harvest cool air from a room and spit it back out, heated. It turns out that my idle fascination with this technology made a couple of posts about heatilators perennial (if seasonal) favorites. If you blog about something that is both obscure and practical, people will find the post. They don't stick around to read the other posts, but over time the numbers pile up.



In the past couple of weeks, though, a new post shot to the top of the list. The title is generic enough that it should not stick out in google the way "heatilator" does. The topic--a discussion of agriculture, evolution, misperception among anthropologists, and risk--doesn't seem fascinating enough to justify 700 hits in a couple of weeks. I'm not seeing traffic sources that would indicate the hits are being generated by academics, and besides, there are no comments telling me where I am wrong, which the archaeologists would never be able to resist.



So, it's gotta be the bots. Why they like this topic more than teacher pay, or backroads, or whatever, I cannot fathom. I'm more interested in what the next post striking human interest will be.




Smokies Plans Prescribed Burn in Cataloochee

Great Smoky Mountains National Park fire management officials are planning two 200-acre prescribed burns in the Canadian Top unit adjacent to Cataloochee Valley in North Carolina. Weather permitting, burn operations could begin as early as Monday, October 28th, and may continue intermittently through early November.




The two burn units are located on Bald Top adjacent to Mathews Branch near the Cataloochee Ranger Station. The units are part of the larger Canadian Top multi-year prescribed fire project where fire managers have been conducting a series of low-intensity, controlled burns to restore the composition and open structure of the oak woodlands that occur on upper slopes and ridges within the site. These fire and drought-tolerant natural communities are important to wildlife and overall ecosystem health which are in decline throughout the Southern Appalachian region.



"One of the goals of the prescribed burn is to improve elk forage and habitat," said Great Smoky Mountain Wildland Fire Module Leader Shane Paxton. “This series of burns will reduce the number of fire-sensitive trees and shrubs while increasing the regeneration of oak and yellow pines along with increasing the cover and diversity of native grasses and wildflowers. Over time, this increase in herbaceous vegetation on the forest floor will improve forage for elk which graze the nearby meadows.”



Roads and trails will remain open to the public throughout the burn operations, although Little Cataloochee Trail may be temporarily closed if fire activity warrants. Visitors should expect to see smoke in the area.



The burn operations will be conducted by park staff and are being funded by the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation. For more information on the use of prescribed burns in Great Smoky Mountains NP, visit our website at www.nps.gov/grsm/naturescience/fire-regime.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Discover the West

Regular readers of this blog are likely aware that Kathy and I spent several weeks traveling to various national and state parks across the west coast last month. As a result of this trip, as well as a similar trip we took across the southwest last year, we’ve decided to launch a new hiking website. The new site encompasses all of the trails we’ve hiked during those two trips, as well as many of the hikes we’ve done throughout the Rocky Mountain states over the last several years.




This new website includes a wide range of hikes from places like Yosemite, Mt. Rainier, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Grand Canyon, and many of the other parks across the west. This site can be used as a tool to help you plan which trails you might like to tackle on an upcoming trip, or as a way of discovering new destinations for a trip down the road.



The link to the new site is: http://discoverthewest.blogspot.com/



Please feel free to provide any feedback that we could possibly use to improve the website.



Thank you very much!





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Kelly McGarry: Insane Downhill Biking POV Video

Okay, this just might be the most hair-raising bike video I've ever seen.



Speeding down the narrow sandstone ridge is pretty scary as it is, but when Diamondback athlete Kelly McGarry does a 72-foot-long back flip over a canyon - WOW!!!



This run earned McGarry the People’s Choice Award and a 2nd place finish at the Red Bull Rampage 2013 in Virgin, Utah earlier this month.



All of this was captured on McGarry's helmet-mounted, point of view camera:









Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Blue Ridge Parkway Rangers Remain Busy During Government Shutdown

Today's NPS Morning Report is reporting that Blue Ridge Parkway Rangers had to deal with a number of significant incidents during the extended shutdown of the federal government earlier this month. They include:



• An investigation was begun into a report from local police that people had been contacted by a police impersonator at two different locations on the parkway.




• A 76-year-old woman took a five foot fall on the Green Stone Trail, suffering injuries that left her paralyzed from the chest down. She remains in a hospital on a ventilator.



• Rangers came upon a car parked along the road with several varieties of mushrooms on its front seat. When the owner returned, the rangers found that he had another six pounds of mushrooms in his possession. Investigation and a consent search of the vehicle led to the discovery of records for $22,766 in sales going back to April and a contact list for restaurants and other buyers. Records also showed that the man had sold over a thousand pounds of various mushrooms (chicken of the woods, hen of the woods, lobster, oyster, morel and chanterelle) and hundreds of pounds of ramps, which he admitted were collected on NPS, state and private lands. Charges against him are pending.



• A ranger served papers on a man who hit a pedestrian and two dogs with his motorcycle while drunk (.19 BAC) and speeding.



• Three people were injured and taken to local hospital following a head-on collision in heavy fog at Reid’s Gap.



Rangers also dealt with several illegal camping incidents, auto and motorcycle crashes, drug and poaching arrests, and an illegal group bike ride.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Big South Fork Announces Winter Schedule For Park Facilities

With the onset of winter brings shorter days, colder weather and reduced visitor use. Some facilities within the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area will close for the winter or observe reduced hours and operations. "Closing some under-utilized facilities will help save energy and personnel time that otherwise would have to be used to maintain those facilities through the winter months. Our goal is to accommodate visitor needs while saving as much taxpayer money as possible," said Superintendent Niki Stephanie Nicholas.




The Bandy Creek Visitor Center in the Big South Fork will observe reduced hours of operation for the late fall and winter seasons. The Bandy Creek Visitor Center will be open from 9:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. Eastern Time each day beginning Sunday, November 3, 2013. The Visitor Center will be open every day except for Christmas Day, December 25. The park is open for use every day of the year. The Blue Heron Bookstore and Interpretive Contact Station will be closed beginning November 1. The Blue Heron Mining Camp is open for visits throughout the year whenever road conditions allow safe access.



The Bandy Creek and Blue Heron campgrounds will be open on a first-come, first-served basis beginning Friday, November 1. The Bandy Creek Group Camp will close immediately after the Veterans Day weekend. All other campsites will be available on a first-come, first-served basis until Monday, December 2, at which time Bandy Creek Campground Loops A, B, and C, and the Blue Heron Campground will close for the winter. Bandy Creek Loop D and Alum Ford Campground are open throughout the year.



Days may be shorter and the weather cooler, but the Big South Fork has a great deal to offer during the winter months. To find out how you may continue to enjoy the Big South Fork in the coming months, please call the Bandy Creek Visitor Center at (423) 286-7275.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Some Applause for Victorinox




Some web-surfing in September led me to the Victorinox Swiss Army Knife website, and I discovered that for $5 they would look and and if possible repair a damaged knife.



I had this knife in my pocket knives-and-key chains box — I don't even know where it came from — but the scissors were broken and the scales (side pieces) were both chipped. Miraculously, the tweezers and toothpick were still intact.



So I sent it in and about three weeks later had it back, good as new. They returned the old scales, don't ask me why.


Catopsilia pyranthe (Madagascar)

Toujours dans les environs de Ambatomirahavavy à Madagascar, j'ai fait une rencontre très éphémère avec ce Catopsilia pyranthe, un Papillon de la famille des Pieridae qui n'est pas sans rappeler par sa couleur notre Gonepteryx rhamni, le Citron, sans cependant en avoir tout à fait la forme. Catopsilia pyranthe


Blog Stew with "Thump Thump Thump"

¶ "Wind-turbine syndrome" — on its way to becoming a diagnosis.



¶ Colorado, where you can't bank your legal marijuana money, but you can defend it with firearms.



¶ "Dead zone" is putting it a little strongly, but yes, if you live in the mountains (or parts of the prairie) the ambulance is thirty minutes away. So is the fire engine and the deputy sheriff. Have a plan and hope for the best?


Obed Wild and Scenic River to offer climbing clinic for beginers

The Obed Wild and Scenic River has announced two programs that will take place on Saturday, November 2nd. The first will allow you to bring any questions you have and join National Park Service rangers for a free cup of coffee at Lilly Bridge from 8:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m. (EDT).



Then, meet at Lilly Bridge at 11 a.m. (EDT) for their Climb with a Ranger program. If you have ever wanted to try the sport of rock climbing but did not know where to begin, let park rangers help eliminate some of the uncertainty for you. The park will provide all of the gear. All that you need to bring is drinking water, sturdy footwear, a willingness to try new things and a can-do attitude. Depending on participant interests and ability levels, participants will travel to one of several different climbing areas around the park. Participants can expect to be back to their vehicles by approximately 3 p.m. (EDT). Would be rock climbers of all ages are encouraged to attend. These programs will be held regardless of weather conditions.



No reservations are necessary for either of these free events. For more information regarding the two events, please contact the Obed Wild and Scenic River at 423-346-6294.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


On the Road: Name That River (3)


No one is winning the fabulous invisible prize, so I will try one last time.



I wanted to photograph this river on my first traveling day (October 4th), but the weather was just too dismal. It was not so dismal on the way home, but still dismal in some respects.


November Classic Hikes of the Smokies: Who was the Boogerman?


On the third Tuesday of each month this year, Friends of the Smokies will be offering guided hikes as part of their Classic Hikes of the Smokies series. To celebrate the Friends’ 20th anniversary this year, each hike will honor an achievement or cause that the Friends organization has supported in Great Smoky Mountains National Park since its establishment in 1993.



The hike for next month will honor hemlock conservation:



November 19: Who was the Boogerman?

Distance: 7.5 miles

Elevation Gain: 1150 feet

Trails – Caldwell Fork Trail and Boogerman Trail



To help support the Smokies Trails Forever program, a donation of $10 for members and $35 for non-members is requested. Non-members receive a complimentary membership to Friends of the Smokies. Members who bring a friend hike for free. You can pre-register for this through Friends of the Smokies at outreach.nc@friendsofthesmokies.org or 828-452-0720.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


National Parks Epic Challenge: Rangers Rappel Rushmore

The National Park Foundation is publishing a series of excellent videos they call the "National Parks Epic Challenge".



In the latest video, National Park Rangers descend over Mount Rushmore's enormous mountain sculpture to do preservation work on Lincoln’s face… in other words, to give Old Abe a facelift. The rangers protect Rushmore from erosion, patching cracks and attaching sensors that are connected to strain gauges that monitor rock movement. Mount Rushmore National Memorial in South Dakota was featured in the Hitchcock movie North By Northwest. While the characters in this film appear to climb on the sculpture, in reality only rangers are allowed to do this. Visitors who see Rushmore are inspired by one of the world’s most spectacular works of art:





Rangers Rappel Rushmore: National Parks Epic Challenge from National Park Foundation on Vimeo.







Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Brian Sykes Says The Yeti Is A Bear

From my occasional interest in things Bigfoot-ish: Noted British geneticist Brian Sykes says that purported yeti (abominable snowman) hair samples from the Himalayas are actually from a bear.


Sykes compared DNA from hair samples taken from two Himalayan animals — identified by local people as Yetis — to a database of animal genomes. He found they shared a genetic fingerprint with a polar bear jawbone found in the Norwegian Arctic that is at least 40,000 years old.



Sykes said Thursday that the tests showed the creatures were not related to modern Himalayan bears but were direct descendants of the prehistoric animal.


So in a way that conclusion replaces one mystery with another one.


South Dakota As You Have Never Seen It




Dakotalapse is a site featuring time-lapse photography videos created by Randy Halverson of Kennebec, S.D. (That is the White River in one series.)

I shot Horizons from April - October 2012 mostly in South Dakota, but also some at Devils Tower in Wyoming. From the rugged Badlands, the White River valley and the Black Hills, the horizons seem to endlessly change.

You can download the videos for a small fee. They are gorgeous.


Hike to Celebrate Reopening of Great Smoky Mountains National Park

With the Great Smoky Mountains National Park opening up tomorrow, it's time to show solidarity with park employees and park partners!




The Great Smoky Mountains Association and Friends of the Smokies are offering a joint fall color hike along Chasteen Creek tomorrow to celebrate the reopening of Great Smoky Mountains National Park.



The hike will travel along the Bradley Fork and Chasteen Creek Trails to marvel at the changing leaves, late fall flowers, and a tumbling waterfall.



On Thursday, October 17th hiking expert, author of several outdoor publications, GSMA board member and Friend of the Smokies volunteer Danny Bernstein will lead this 7-mile out and back hike. The hike is moderate in difficulty with a total ascent of 1,200 feet and partially follows an old roadbed beside the creek. After the downhill return, participants can get an early jump on their holiday shopping at the Oconaluftee Visitor Center. Please plan to visit the store.



The hike will leave the Bradley Fork Trailhead near Smokemont at 9:45 am.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Raise a Toast for the Appalachian Trail Ridgerunner Program

The next edition of Nantahala Brewing Company's Trail Magic Ale will debut at a release party this Friday, with proceeds of bottle sales to benefit the Appalachian Trail Ridgerunner Program.




This Friday the Nantahala Brewing Company will be tapping the first keg of the 6th installment of their Trail Magic Ale series. Tapping will commence at 6 p.m. exclusively at their Tap Room in Bryson City. Also, for the first time ever, NBC will begin selling bottles on Friday night at 7 p.m.



This Trail Magic Ale release is a rich, red Rye Wine. Along with the liberal use of Rye malt, locally malted Pale Malt, provided by Riverbend Malt House, was used to give this 10.2% ABV monster of a brew some local roots and the colorful spirit of a Great Smoky Mountain Fall.



A portion of proceeds of the bottle sales will be donated to the Appalachian Trail Ridgerunner Program via the Friends of the Smokies organization. Each year the Park recruits a series of individuals who provide a presence on the Appalachian Trail from March through October. They provide visitor information, do trail maintenance, pack out litter, keep up composting privies, report on the condition of the trail and the shelters, report emergencies and advise hikers on food storage and other regulations, and relay real-time information regarding possible problem bears. Their presence on the AT for over 15 years has made a huge difference in the Park’s ability to manage the AT.



For more information, please click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Great Smoky Mountains National Park to reopen for 5 days

Tennessee Gov. Bill Haslam today announced an agreement to reopen the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) with all normal operations from Wednesday, October 16 through Sunday, October 20.




“The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is America’s most visited national park, and for the Smokies and the people around it, the month of October is the most important time of the year,” Haslam said. “I remain hopeful that an end to the federal government shutdown will come this week.”



The national park costs $60,100 to operate per day, according to the National Park Service (NPS). Sevier County has sent $300,500 to NPS to open the park for five days.



The state is paying 80 percent of the cost in the form of a $240,400 tourism grant to Sevier County with Sevier and Blount counties funding the remaining $60,100 to fully fund operation of the park for five days.



An NPS report found that the 9.6 million visitors to GSMNP during 2012 had an economic impact of $818 million in communities surrounding the park in Tennessee and North Carolina.



Haslam has worked with North Carolina Gov. Pat McCrory, who has expressed a willingness to assist financially with the reopening.



“I appreciate the cooperation and support of Governor McCrory and the state of North Carolina,” Haslam said. “Together, we’ve been able to reopen the nation’s most-visited park during a key month for tourism in Tennessee.”



The park will open at 12 a.m. EDT on Wednesday, October 16 and stay open until 11:59 p.m. EDT on Sunday, October 20 if the shutdown is not ended in that time.



For detailed information on many of the trails in the Great Smoky Mountains, please click here





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Sen. Alexander Introduces Bill That Would Reimburse Tennessee for Reopening the Smokies

U.S. Senator Lamar Alexander (R-Tenn.) today introduced legislation in the Senate to reimburse states within 90 days for all state funds used to reopen national parks while the federal government is shut down. On Friday, Alexander said that for surrounding communities, “the Smokies closing is like a BP oil spill for the Gulf.”



Alexander continued: “I voted against shutting down the government, and I’m doing all I can to reopen it – and assuring states that the federal government will reimburse them for funds used to reopen our national treasures is a good step in the right direction. For the surrounding communities, the Smokies closing is like a BP oil spill for the Gulf. This is the prime tourist season for the Smokies, when many of the small businesses around the park make most of their money, and I urge Congress to pass this legislation quickly.”



Alexander said the shutdown of the federal government has impacted Tennessee’s other national park facilities in addition to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, including Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park and Chickamauga-Chattanooga National Military Park.



Representatives Phil Roe and John J. Duncan, Jr., both Tennessee Republicans, have introduced similar legislation in the U.S. House of Representatives.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Lenticular cloud over Clingmans Dome

Below is a video that was published by the Great Smoky Mountains Association on Sunday. Apparently this lenticular cloud formation over Clingmans Dome took place sometime over the weekend. Here's what the GSMA had to say about it:

An interesting weather phenomenon called a mountain wave, formed a beautiful standing lenticular cloud for about an hour over Clingmans Dome. Lenticular Clouds are quite common in the western mountainous and desert regions of the US, but occasionally form on some of the highest peaks in the Smokies, like Clingmans Dome and Mount LeConte. Unfortunately, with the shutdown we will not be able to collect the wind speed information, but it was probably in the 50 to 60 mile an hour range.



Lentinculars form when dry stable air crosses a mountain barrier. Dry air flowing up the windward side of the mountain is smooth, but built in layers. The mountain barrier will set up waves in these layers, and these waves will remain within a stationary area, while the wind blows rapidly through them. Standing lenticular clouds form in the crests of the mountain wave where the rising updraft of the wave has cooled and moisture has condensed. The clouds dissipate in the downdrafts of the wave where the air has descended and warmed to the point where the moisture evaporates and is no longer visible. This is why the clouds are called "standing". They stay in the crests of the mountain waves and do not move with the wind flow.



This particular lenticular had extreme turbulance and a strong rotating rotor cloud at its base. Being on the Dome this morning would have been like being in a mild chilly wind tunnel.









Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


It's about Selling Clothes, not Praise for Outdoor Passions


At Clash Daily, Doug Giles likes it that Ralph Lauren is using some pseudo-vintage hunting photographs to promote a clothing line. He writes,

I'd like to personally thank Ralph Lauren for …



a.) Creating a line of clothes for dudes that’s not effeminate.

b.) Showcasing these awesome, traditional designs in a hunting and fishing context.



Hunters, Anglers and Outdoors-men: Check out RRL and show your support for Ralph’s praise of our passions by purchasing some of his bad ass threads

Me, not so much. Pseudo-vintage is just a tool for Lauren (born Ralph Lipshitz). Whether it is an East Coast WASP horses-and-sailboats vibe, or his fantasy-Western ranch outside Ridgway, Colorado, Lauren's designs often have a nose-pressed-to-the-glass feeling to them. "If only I could be one of those people."



But even if you have it, do you really have it?As Ed Quillen's review of a book about Ridgway and the "New West stated,"

[The book] will resonate in many other towns undergoing an uneasy transition from Old West to New West — a transition from neighbors who relied on each other to get through hard times to residents who moved there precisely because they don’t want neighbors and who remain isolated from the local economy.

And Lauren is Exhibit A.



Models in clothes with the flavor of 1910? Color me unimpressed.


Blog Stew: Only Partly Faked

¶ "Nature-faking" at the BBC. This is nothing new.



¶ Cornell Ornithology Lab has owl sounds for free download. Missing: spotted owl, flammulated owl, but a pretty good North American selection otherwise, since a lot of owling is done with the ears.



¶ The rising trend of fake service dogs. I have noticed this in the last two or three years. But service dogs are supposed to be calm, so there is no point in strapping a SERVICE DOG vest on Fisher.



¶ How mulching helped the High Park burn scar during last month's deluge.


Crabtree Falls, Virginia






Barefoot, mid-stream in cold autumn water....only wish there were more time.











Crabtree Falls, Virginia






Barefoot, mid-stream in cold autumn water....only wish there were more time.











Smoky Mountains Fall Color Update

Although the Federal Government Shutdown has closed hiking in the Smokies, leaf peepers can still get out and enjoy the fall colors along Newfound Gap Road and the Blue Ridge Parkway. In fact, the GSMA is predicting that fall colors promise to be very good to excellent this year. On their latest Fall Color Update , the GSMA point out that fall colors are now near their peak at elevations of 5,000 feet and above in the Smokies, and peak colors at the mid and lower elevations should occur in the late October to early November time frame.



The latest update on the Blue Ridge Parkway from blueridgeparkwaydaily.com shows that fall colors are beginning to hit their peak along the highest reaches of the parkway:





Detailed Blue Ridge Parkway Fall Colors Tracker







Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Titanic Battle Between Two Bull Elk Caught on Film

Check out this heavyweight bout between two bull elk. Would you say the photographer got just a little too close?









Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


On the Road: Name that RIver (2)


This river is a tributary to this one. Its name would be familiar in sound to anyone in Wyoming or eastern Colorado, but this river's name is spelled differently.



Identify it for a fabulous invisible prize!


Local Calls for Protest of Smoky Mountains Shutdown

"We may not be allowed into the Parks, but that DOES NOT make it right. Those lands are ours, and if the best we can do is spread awareness of how devastating this shutdown is on local families, then so be it! Let's bring this story to the Nations attention."

That quote is from Jeremiah Spelas , an artist who lives in Gatlinburg. Over the last few days he has been organizing a protest of the closure of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which will take place this Saturday morning at the entrance to the park near Gatlinburg.



The focus of the protest is to express discontent about the closure and raise awareness about the businesses and residents affected by it. Here is a copy of the flyer he's been passing around:










Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


On the Road: Name That River


Identify this river and win a fabulous invisible prize.



Hint: it is colorado but not in Colorado nor is it the Colorado.



For an even bigger invisible prize, from what state was this photo taken?


Yellow Matter Textures





If for no other reason than the last post being a bummer, here's something completely different: a couple of yellowish photos. Since the advent of digital cameras has made it incredibly cheap and easy to take lots of shots, I supplement the "archaeological object with scale" genre with pictures of pretty much anything else of interest: landscapes, mylar balloons in unexpected places, pretty rocks, funny signs,...and textures.






Shooting an image that lacks a specific point of interest, a textured wash of color, can be a nice departure from my usual focus, complexion instead of complexity. Also, they can make nice backgrounds for slide shows that I occasionally give at a conference or presentation (because something in me rebels against the powerpoint pre-fab options).



These two shots, miles and months apart, are just a couple of examples. The bottom one is the "mother," a mat of microbes on the surface of apple cider I was letting ferment itself into vinegar. The top one is what some people call beach dodder, Hawaiians call kauna`oa, and biologists would call a species of Cuscuta. Parasite, lei material (it's Lana`i's official flower), colonizer of seashores all over the earth, background for a slide,...the shot with no focal point is open to whatever story you lay on it.




Shut down? Shut up!

We're now more than a week into the government shutdown, and Bryson City would like to make one message clear: 'Shut down? Shut Up!' The real message from this light-hearted video is that there's still plenty to see and do in the Great Smoky Mountains.









Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Smokies Public Affairs Office Clarifies Hiking During Shutdown

The Great Smoky Mountains Public Affairs Office recently published a press release clarifying the issue of hiking in the park during the government shutdown:



Great Smoky Mountains National Park remains closed following the shutdown of the federal government. The Smokies, along with all 401 National Park Service units, closed visitor facilities on October 1, 2013. All visitor centers, picnic areas, campgrounds, trails, and roads are closed except for Newfound Gap Road (Hwy 441), the Spur, and the Gatlinburg Bypass.




In the Park, 279 employees were placed on furlough primarily leaving only a few dozen rangers on duty to protect property and resources throughout the park, as well as the public traveling the Spur and Newfound Gap Road. While most overlooks and pull-offs along the roadway are open to accommodate safe traffic flow over the mountains, facilities and trails remain closed. Park rangers are dependent on personnel, now furloughed, trained to support search and rescue operations when hikers become lost, injured, or ill in the backcountry. Such occurrences are normally quite frequent at this time of the year and each one typically requires up to a dozen or more park staff to resolve.



“We ask that the public voluntarily respect the closure of the backcountry for everyone’s safety,” said Chief Ranger Clay Jordan. “With less staff on duty, we do not have the personnel on hand to sufficiently respond to emergency situations in the backcountry. We understand the desire of visitors to hike during this beautiful time of year and we are hopeful that the park will soon reopen.”



For information on hiking in areas surrounding the park, please click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Blog Stew on the River

¶ Legal challenges to zee artiste Christo's "Over the River" continue.



¶ Do vultures take baths? Chris Weems has the video. Also owls.



¶ Colorado's first legal industrial hemp crop is harvested.

Loflin used social media to line up about 45 volunteers to hand-harvest his crop on Saturday and Sunday

Probably not a long-term harvesting model, however. Don't the Canadians have a combine head for hemp?


Clingmans Dome: An Island in the Sky

The first in GSMA's Smoky Mountain Explorer Series, "An Island in the Sky" takes viewers on a journey to the "Top of Old Smoky," Clingmans Dome, the highest peak in the Great Smoky Mountains. The 35-minute video features the cinematography of GSMA's own Gary Wilson, who captured astonishing footage of rivers of clouds, sunrises, wildlife, wildflowers and the turn of the seasons atop this island in the sky. The Great Smoky Mountains Association was thrilled to include narration for the video by Bill Landry of "The Heartland Series" fame. Here's the trailer from the film:







Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Schwabacker's Landing

Schwabacker's Landing

Bison, Bears, and Wolves . . . in Europe

That buffalo (bison) in the photo banner up top is part of a private herd at the Wolf Springs Ranch in Huerfano County, Colorado. Where he is grazing is historic habitat, but the herd was re-introduced and built up by a wealthy rancher, Tom Redmond.



His distant relatives in eastern Europe, once almost extinct, are making a managed comeback in Poland and Belarus. So are some other species that seemed likely to be preserved only in museums and heraldry, says The Telegraph:


The European bison, which was extinct in the wild in Europe at the start of the 20th century, has increased by more than 3,000 per cent after a large-scale breeding and reintroduction programme. It now has particular strongholds in Belarus and Poland.

Brown bear numbers have doubled and the grey wolf population of Europe quadrupled between 1970 and 2005.

There were also sharp rises in numbers of several species of bird, including the Svalbard breeding population of the barnacle goose, the white-tailed eagle and the Spanish imperial eagle.


But tell me, did someone at The Telegraph use a stock photo of North American bison? Compare to these.For a moment I wondered if someone was cross-breeding our bison, but I don't think so. The website of the European Bison Conservation Center says, "The [captive breeding] program should ensure separation of the pure Lowland and the Lowland-Caucasian lines and avoid hybridization with any other related species."








The Curse of Oh No, or, The Rum Diarrhea





The week took it's time in skulking up behind and bludgeoning me with what I can only assume was a femur unearthed from the San Quentin boneyard. If I'd been more aware, the signs were there: truck reluctant to travel, resulting in a starved frenzied drive to the very tip of the lower 48, a headache so long in the tooth that it reached my manawa, the skull-top whose calcification signals passage to something beyond infancy for all but our Tea Party brethren.






But for the time being, said signs hid and instead I saw the rainbow over an inlet, and enjoyed the presence of mind and present of time to pull over and photograph this glowingly fine apparition. I felt the truck complain and turned back before I ended up stranded hours from town. I got another evening in my own bed. I spent the next two days at an uncharacteristically sunny Neah Bay, basking in the warmth of government and tribal resource managers mostly in agreement. Somewhere offshore, I was sure, sea lions and lambs lay together in harmony.



I, I, I. As long as my phone was back home and the internet proved too slow to deal with. Everything was fine, as long as it was just I. Aye-aye-yai. No them.



Them them phoned in on Thursday. Him, specifically. He who is a legendary island archaeologist and drunkard (there is a difference, so he gets double credit), who began working in Hawai`i about when I did, and whose strait is now dire (same as it ever was). He who was not cajoled into an MA, or out of the field and into the bidness, or into a marriage. He who now faces another bout of unemployment with no back-up. He who is one of the best in his field, but archaeological fields are parochial, so when there is no work locally, emigration is no option unless cannibals nip at his heels. If some project does not emerge soon, he's fucked.



So he was frustrated, down, and was several days out into booze ocean when I heard from him. Gone the moderate wine of the past few months--down the gullet with rum and coconut milk. I had to go not long after he called, but rang back later only to get an answering app. Responding later that evening, having forgotten what day it was and that we'd talked earlier, he was Out...



Of...



It.



Which I can understand. No job. He made the calls and found no work among the usual suspects (the only kind there are in the islands, really), so who's to question despondency and maybe even dependency on a bottle of that which will be there (for a while) when employment (gainful or joyful) has walked out? So a guy may well plead the fifth, and then another, and so further past a gallon, maybe firkins and before all is said and done a hogshead. But to any hard drinker, it's not about the cumulative total, it's about taking it one bottle at a time.



But so goes the spiral that heads down or stagnates. There are few ups from weeks blacked out and besotted. Regrets, yes, sometimes leading to another round. Recoveries, perhaps, but sure to be challenged by another layoff.



If we lived in a world where enthusiasm, skill, and knowledge were rewarded, he'd be fine, and if being funny counted he'd be sitting pretty. But we live in a world where "just" being a field guy comes off as unambitious, and skepticism spiced with comedy comes off as trouble-making. Besides which, it's easier to hire new kids who work for peanuts than to offer a man a living wage because he gathers the data upon which the whole enterprise depends. Predictably and sadly, this is true even if the kids have little clue and the 40-something vet has the benefit of decades of experience. Missed sites are bulldozed away, none the wiser except for the veteran shovelbum who knew the deal, and was cut out or walked out.



But the honor of a guy like my friend, who would walk out on a crook's deal, does not demand much on the market. If it's not for sale, the fixers and fiends find a work-around--someone willing to sell fake honor, typically--and then honor's Cash Value = Zero. As a consolation prize, cast-aways of this system receive enough unemployment to live a seriously bleak life or a drunkenly numb one.



Either ailment in this short list of options weighs so heavily on any one man that recovering without company can crush vertebra. So, I'll keep calling from time to time. Maybe I cannot fix the economy, or thirsty genes, but I can be better than nothing, if only barely.








Backcountry Hygiene for Women

Answers to all the difficult questions, from a woman who has backpacked the length of South America — and more.

Even if you’re a guy, it’d be worth reading this article: If you ever want your girlfriend, fiancee, or wife to join you on a backpacking trip, your ignorance on this subject could be major roadblock.

Hat tip: Mountain Matters


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