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Colorado's Ugly New "Hazmat" Tourism Logo




This "brand new logo" looks like a hazardous-materials placard. "This truck is carrying carbon monoxide."



Or maybe it's a tent, and you have been left the camping stove on with the tent flaps closed, and now you are dead.



Did someone in the highway department design it? It's highly visible, all right, but does it say "Come visit"?


What Smell?





I have a friend who was looking for a place to live in the Portland-Vancouver sphere of influence, and found himself in the town of Camas, Washington. A massive pulp mill there pumps out stinky steam in vast volumes, at least on some days, and he wondered if this was the case all the time. So he asked a local, "Does it smell like this all the time?"



And the local said, "What smell?"



We get used to the local stinks and our auto-aromatic effluvia. Some people cannot stand it and move, or slather themselves in some masking odor, but often as not, the nose and mind conspire to erase the stench we cannot escape. It moves so far into the background that we cannot tell it smells; it dissipates so we can get on with life.



Recognizing the stank of someone else's town is easy, sensing the pee smell in an apartment where cats dwell challenges noone but the cat lady, and this adds to our perception that the townspeople may be brain-damaged by the smoke-stack blightning and that the cat lady is deranged. But she feels normal, and the people of Camas go about lives like most of us; they don't spend their days bemoaning a sub-standard life, as far as I can tell.



Which makes me wonder, what stinks in my life? What is it that people smell, or see, or hear about me that is odious or off-putting, but that I have no clue about? I can guess at a few: I sweat a lot and am no stranger to the aromatic aftermath, I speak caustic and radical ideas,...but there must be things about me that I am smell-blind or sight-deaf to, things that feel normal to me, but to others are offensive.



We all have our Camas smokestacks. Some people may pity us for them, while others hold their nose, and still others flee in disgust. Sometimes, we can and should shut down the mill, make changes to eliminate offal odors and improve ourselves. But our ability to say "What smell?" can be a positive adaptation, an ability to live in the moment and get done what needs doing, rather than engaging in what will end up being an endless and ultimately futile campaign of eliminating all odors, or banishing every quirk and imperfection. Places and people differ, and it would be boring if everyone and all places were universally acceptable.




Where the Wild Trees Are




Based on a NASA map found here.

The map above shows the total amount of woody biomass in the [continental] USA. It's displayed at a 30 meter resolution, where every four pixels constitutes an acre and every ten represents a hectare.

There are also trees in Alaska and Hawaii, I understand.


The Annual Hawk Migration / Flock to the Rock

The first cold front of the year usually passes through the Smoky Mountains during the early-to-mid September time period. As the weather patterns change to cooler temperatures, Broad-winged hawks begin to make their annual migration down the Appalachian Mountain range to winter in the neo-tropics of Mexico, to as far south as Southern Brazil. For bird enthusiasts, this provides an excellent opportunity to watch the buteos as they kettle-up over the ridges and glide from one thermal to the next.



The Broad-wings are one of the first species to begin their southern migration. Flocks or “kettles” can be quite large. You may even see a few Cooper’s, Northern Harriers and Sharp-shinned hawks joining in as well.



Some of the best vantage points in the Smokies to watch the migrations are at the higher elevations of the park, such as Newfound Gap, Clingmans Dome, Look Rock, or Indian Gap.



Hawk enthusiasts also have the option of attending the "Flock to the Rock" event at Chimney Rock State Park in North Carolina. Already in its 5th year, Flock to the Rock is billed as the region’s premier fall migration birding event. The weekend of September 21st and 22nd includes bird walks guided by local experts, family nature walks, as well as workshops ranging from bird photography to hummingbirds. For more information, please click here .





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Temporary Closure of Springhouse Branch Trail

Great Smoky Mountains National Park officials announced the temporary closure of Springhouse Branch Trail to all horse use due to unsafe trail conditions. Park trail crews will complete needed repairs by early October.



Heavy rainfall this year resulted in the development of a wet weather spring which recently washed away the trail surface along a section of Springhouse Gap Trail exposing slick bedrock. Due to the steep terrain and unstable surface, the area is no longer safe for stock travel. The trail is passable for foot traffic, but hikers should exercise extreme caution.



Park crews will repair the trail by building an elevated structure made of natural materials including locust posts and crushed stone that will allow for proper drainage. The improvements will create a durable surface for horse travel. Crews will begin work in early September and expect to be completed by early October.



The trail is located in just north of Bryson City, between the Forney Creek and Noland Creek Trails. For more information about trail closures, please call the Backcountry Information Office at 865-436-1297.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Mammoths, Mushrooms, and Extinction

Coprophilic fungus offers a clue to the extinction of North American mammoths, seeming to point away from the "Pleistocene overkill" hypothesis. Maybe.



The debate continues here at the Vanished Giants blog.



(I chose the title for the alliteration. It is fungus but not really a mushroom. But it was on the Cornell Mushroom Blog . OK?)


Precious Sleeping Angel

Just had to share my precious little granddaughter today!


maddie sleeping





“Sound Walk” Offered by Park Artist in Residence

Great Smoky Mountain National Park Artist in Residence, Dominique Ferraton, will be offering a guided sound walk on Wednesday, August 28 from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m.along a section of the Fighting Creek Nature Trail. Ferraton will discuss how sounds affect people and how humans are changing the sonic landscape everywhere. The walk is open to all ages, and participants will discover how the simple act of listening can deepen our experience in the environment.



Sound walk participants will meet in front of Sugarlands Visitor Center at 2 p.m., rain or shine. This is a unique opportunity to explore the park through its rich soundtrack.



The Park Artist-in-Residence (AiR) provides select artists with the chance to live in and create their art within Great Smoky Mountains National Park for 4-6 weeks. The program is made possible due to support from Friends of the Smokies and in collaboration with Arrowmont School of Arts & Crafts. The artists create works of art and share experiences that promote an understanding of the need to preserve and care for the park. As the artist experiences the park and pursues their body of work, they also have the opportunity to engage and inspire the public through outreach programs.



For more information on the AiR program or to RSVP for the sound walk, please contact the park's Volunteer Coordinator at 865-436-1265.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Opening of Temporary Bypass at Milepost 374 on Blue Ridge Parkway

The Blue Ridge Parkway re-opened a closed section of the historic motor road today (August 26, 2013), from Milepost 376 at Ox Creek Road in Asheville, NC to Milepost 355 at Mt. Mitchell State Park using temporary bypass lanes. The speed limit in this section of the roadway has been reduced to 15 mph to ensure public safety while traveling through the bypass area. To better navigate the bypass alignment, motorists are urged to reduce speed as they approach this area. The reduced speed limit will be strictly enforced. The Craggy Gardens Visitor Center and Picnic Area, located at Milepost 364, was also reopened on Monday.




The 500 foot long by-pass restores two-way traffic through the area affected by significant structural damage as a result of unusually heavy rainfall totals earlier this summer. It is anticipated that the bypass route will close again and the detour routes will be reinstated in November 2013 so construction can resume to stabilize the slope and repair the area permanently.



Parkway management apologizes for any inconvenience to our visitors and cautions the public to be aware of changing weather and road conditions at all times. As always, the public is encouraged to use the park’s website to access road information and plan their visit.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


How Rainy has it really been in the Smokies this year?

So how much rain has the Smokies received this year? It seems like an awful lot, or is it just our collective imagination?



To answer that question I compiled some data to compare this year against the long term averages. The graph below shows monthly precipitation amounts for Mt. LeConte in 2013. Monthly precipitation amounts for January through July were taken from the Weather Warehouse . August data was derived from the NOAA National Weather Service page . Both sources, I assume, receive their data from the observation station at the Mt. LeConte Lodge.



I then compared this data with the long-term monthly averages for Gatlinburg and Clingmans Dome, as reported on the Great Smoky Mountains website. Please note that the data for Mt. LeConte really isn't comparable against the Gatlinburg figures (due to differences in elevation), but certainly is against the Clingmans Dome data.



So are the Smoky Mountains really having substantially more rain this year as compared to the past. The answer is absolutely!



Although the late winter months were more drier than normal, the rest of the year has been much wetter - especially during the months of January, June and July. Although August has been a little drier than normal, there have been 17 days (so far) where Mt. LeConte has received at least some precipitation. On average, Clingmans Dome normally has only 12 days of rain during the month of August. Keep in mind, however, that the August data for Mt. LeConte reflects only the first 25 days of the month, whereas the Clingmans Dome figures reflect the entire month - so we still have a few more days to possibly add to the current totals.



In total, Clingmans Dome normally receives 58 inches of precipitation during the first 8 months of the year. To date, Mt. LeConte has already received 76.7 inches!










Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


First Annual Red Rock Round Up ~ Lake Red Rock

First Annual Red Rock Round Up ~ Lake Red Rock

Tennessee State Parks Announce Passport Challenge

Tennessee State Parks, through a partnership with the ParksByNature Network, have announced a new GeoChallenge for the Pocket Ranger®, the free iPhone and Android application for park visitors on the move.



“The new GeoChallenge, the Tennessee State Parks Passport Challenge, uses the Pocket Ranger’s® advanced GPS mapping features to guide visitors to all of our spectacular state parks, while also offering the chance to compete with other park visitors and win rewards,” Deputy Commissioner Brock Hill said. “The Passport Challenge is a great way for visitors to enjoy and learn about state parks, while also earning prizes.”



With the Tennessee State Parks Passport Challenge, park visitors can earn points at each destination they visit. Easy-to-reach parks are worth five points, while more out-of-the-way locations can be worth up to 20 points. The first person to visit all of the 54 Tennessee State Parks will win a grand prize, a $100 gift card to an outdoor retailer. The runner-up will receive a $50 gift card and the first 10 players to visit 10 individual state parks will receive Pocket Ranger® gear. All prizes are supplied by the ParksByNature Network.



In addition, the Passport Challenge offers Tennessee State Parks visitors the opportunity to keep tabs on fellow competitors while earning points along the way. Participants can view their status, along with the status of fellow park visitors, in the climb of the Passport Challenge’s leaderboard.



Park visitors can sign up now to join the Tennessee State Parks Passport Challenge. The challenge ends September 1, 2014. To participate in the Passport Challenge, download the Pocket Ranger® app by visiting www.tnstateparks.com or www.pocketranger.com and register with a username and password. Once registered, select “Join This Challenge!”





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Cherokee National Forest Announces Closures Due to Bear Activity

U.S. Forest Service officials at the Cherokee National Forest have announced that national forest lands within the corridor between the area known as Oliver Hollow north to Wilbur Dam are temporaily closed to public entry except for through hikers on the Appalachian Trail. The closure is being implemented because of black bear activity in the area.




National forest lands within the corridor are temporarily closed to public entry by land and water access. The Watauga Lake Shelter on the Appalachian Trail is also closed to camping, but the trail is open to through hikers.



Oliver Hollow is located on Watauga Lake in Carter County on Oliver Hollow Rd off Highway 321 near Hampton, TN. Wilbur Dam (TVA) is located on the Watauga River off Wilbur Dam Rd and Bishop Hollow Rd in Carter County near Elizabethton, TN. The corridor is within the Cherokee National Forest’s Watauga Ranger District.



Oliver Hollow is a popular dispersed camping and day use area on the western end of Watauga Lake. Bears have recently been frequenting the corridor and Oliver Hollow. The U.S. Forest Service is working with the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency to address the concern.



Natural Resources Management Team Leader for the Watauga Ranger District, Alice Cohen said, “Bears are opportunists and become habituated to campsites and picnic areas where food has been improperly discarded or stored and is easily available. Though naturally shy of people, they learn to associate people with food. Bears then learn to frequent the same areas where they may encounter humans. This is when concerns arise.”



Forest Service officials say that in all outdoor recreation settings, you should always store your food and trash so it does not attract bears and other animals. Food should be properly stored in a vehicle, or hung from a bear pole or tree when in the back country. Trash should be placed in bear-resistant trash cans where available or packed out when you leave. Do not discard watermelons or any other food scraps in picnic areas, shooting ranges or any other recreation site. Doing so can lead to temporary closure of the site if safety becomes a concern due to bear activity. Your cooperation with this and similar temporary closures may help break the cycle of bears returning to the same sites in search of human food, protecting you and the bears.





Jeff

HikingintheSmokys.com


Fall Day Hiking Basics

Planning an escape to cooler temperatures and fall colors on a day-hike? Join the REI staff in Asheville next month to learn about the basics of hiking. In this class REI experts will share tips and tricks on all aspects of hiking. Learn about trip planning, essential items, equipment, safety precautions, along with local resources and places to go.



The seminar will be held on Wednesday, September 11th, from 6:30 - 8:00 PM EDT.



For more information on the free event, please click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Alum Cave Parking Lot to be Closed for Three Weeks

Great Smoky Mountain visitors planning to hike up to Alum Cave or Mt. LeConte , may want to note that the upper Alum Cave parking lot will be closed from August 26th through September 13th. The park will be paving the lot and adding spaces. The lower lot, near the bathroom, will still be open during this time period.



You may also want to note that the six-mile section of Newfound Gap Road from the Chimneys Picnic Area up towards Alum Cave will be paved this summer. Through September 30th motorists may encounter single-lane closures at night. Traffic will be directed through the construction zone by flaggers. From August 16th through September 30th motorists may also encounter single-lane closures during the day.



For the latest updated information on park closures, please click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Moonlight Kayaking thru the Tennessee River Gorge

Looking for a unique outdoor adventure? How about moonlight kayaking trip through the Tennessee River Gorge?




On Thursday, September 19th, join Outdoor Chattanooga for a special float trip through the heart of the Tennessee River Gorge by moonlight. On this special trip participants should expect quiet water, cool breezes, and a special glimpse into the Cumberland Plateau's majesty. Although the water is flat, some kayaking or canoeing experience is recommended. Outdoor Chattanooga will provide all the equipment and the guides.



Cost is $35 per person (adults only) for the three-hour event . Reservations are required, and can be made by emailing Outdoor Chattanooga at: info@outdoorchattanooga.com or calling (423) 643-6888.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Blow Stew in the Petroglyph Bowl

¶ An article on the possibly oldest petroglyphs in North America associates them chronologically with a set of human remains known as Spirit Cave Man. The interesting thing is that Spirit Cave Man (like Kennewick Man) does not appear to be an American Indian but looked more Caucasoid, perhaps like the Ainu of Japan and Far Eastern Russia.



¶ An update on the "North(ern) Colorado" secession movement. It's going to the voters in some counties.



¶ A recent spate of bear attacks. Bear spray was used in Yellowstone, but maybe not quickly enough?



Couple in Divide successfully start a goat cheese business. The site is the former Alpine Lakes Resort north of town.

"We did not intend to make it on this level," Bob McMillan said. "It started as a harmless retirement thing that got out of control."






Iowa State Fair 2013

Iowa State Fair 2013

The Fox and the Sunflower Seeds












Go ahead, make a move. It's your move . . . you talkin' to me?

Mid-afternoon and there is a ruckus from the dogs, who are penned on the veranda. The gray fox is not too impressed by the dogs' threats.










Yeah, I eat them. You got a problem with that?

Aesop, La Fontaine, and others made a story of "The Fox and the Grapes." So what is the moral lesson of "The Fox and the Sunflower Seeds"? (The seeds fall from a bird feeder.)



Here is your cinematic reference for the first caption, in case you forgot.


And don't forget the movie, which is excellent. But you will need a VHS player.


A Day at the Beach, in Garish Color













The Happy Flotsam of Little Oak Bay














It wasn't a rock lobster; it was a rock.












A rock with an infinity symbol, that is.






Grasshopper

Found this awesome grasshopper hanging out on my car window this morning. How cool that it looks like it’s wearing red-striped socks!


grasshopper





Mountain Homes for Active Vacationers

The following is a guest blog by Amber Ranches:



A vacation retreat in the Great Smoky Mountains is a real convenience for hikers and other outdoor sports enthusiasts. Having a "home base" near plenty of hiking trails, forests, streams and lakes means exciting outdoor adventures can be followed by a home-cooked meal, a fire in the fireplace and a comfortable bed. North Carolina's mountains offer an almost endless variety of activities.



Hiking in North Carolina



Major trailheads in western North Carolina include national treasures such as: Pisgah National Forest, Nantahala National Forest, the Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Many state parks also feature hiking trails, including Hanging Rock, Chimney Rock, Pilot Mountain and Grandfather Mountain. From these trailheads a hiker can choose trails of varying length and difficulty. Most trailheads include places to picnic, shop for provisions, or get maps and information. Parks offer other amenities such as camping and fishing. The Carl Sandburg site, for example, has a house to tour, goats to pet and a full calendar of cultural events.



Other Outdoor Sports




For a change of pace, avid hikers might choose to spend a day whitewater rafting or enjoying a zip line tour at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. The French Broad River is a popular rafting venue near Asheville. Mountain biking is especially enjoyable during the fall, when autumn leaves are at their peak of color. Deal's Gap and the Blue Ridge Parkway are favorite rides for motorcyclists. Golfing is yet another outdoor sport enjoyed by many North Carolinians.



Fishing is a popular pursuit in the Smoky Mountains and surrounding areas as well. The Davidson River, Pigeon River, French Broad River, Newberry Creek and Lake Powhatan are just some of the great fishing sites in western North Carolina. Those who own homes in the area have opportunities to find the best fishing holes and learn from the other locals. Hiking and fishing make a great vacation combination.



Indoor Activities



For rainy days, the vacationer can go to the nearby cities for music, museums, shopping or fine dining. Asheville, Hendersonville, Cherokee and Waynesville all offer unique options for indoor and outdoor activities alike.



Building a vacation home on North Carolina mountain property can lead to years of memorable vacations. A mountain home can even become a permanent home. Consider the advantages of an active outdoor lifestyle near the Great Smoky Mountains.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Smokies Telethon Raises Over $200,000‏

Friends of Great Smoky Mountains National Park raised $201,423 last night through its 19th annual “Friends Across the Mountains” telethon thanks to hundreds of callers and help from sponsors Dollywood, Mast General Store, Pilot Corporation, and SmartBank. Since 1995 Friends of the Smokies telethons have raised more than $2.9 million.



“We extend our sincere thanks to each person that pledged support during the annual telethon. Your stewardship allows us to better meet the growing challenges in caring for park resources and providing opportunities for visitors and we thank you,” said Dale Ditmanson, Superintendent of Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP).



During the broadcast, Sugarland Cellars owner Don Collier presented a $20,000 check to the organization. Since the spring of 2012 the Gatlinburg winery has offered five limited edition varietals with custom labels created by renowned artist Robert A. Tino. Each release is paired with Tino’s matching artistic tiles featuring each label’s artwork. Every bottle generates a $5 donation to help Friends of the Smokies in its mission to preserve and protect GSMNP.



“The generous response to this year’s Friends Across the Mountains Telethon is a continuing testimony to the love that people have for the Smokies and how very important it is to our region,” said Friends of the Smokies President Jim Hart.



Telethon donations can still be made online to help fund more than $1 Million of Park needs this year, including to help protect black bears, heal hemlock trees, and preserve historic log cabins and churches from Cades Cove to Cataloochee Valley.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Gov. Haslam Awards Over $1.6 Million in Parks and Recreation Grants

Tennessee Gov. Bill Haslam and Environment and Conservation Commissioner Bob Martineau announced yesterday that they have awarded $1,694,000 in Recreational Trails Program grants to recipients across Tennessee.



“These grants assist local governments and organizations in improving community amenities such as trails, greenways and recreational facilities, making the outdoors more accessible to Tennesseans.” Haslam said. “The health and wellness of our residents is a top priority and these amenities provide another step to make our state healthier.”



The Recreational Trails Program is a federally-funded program established to distribute funding for diverse recreation trail projects. The funds are available to federal, state and local government agencies, as well as non-profit organizations that have obtained IRS 501 (c) (3) status and have a written trail management agreement with the agency that owns the property where the trail project is located.



Recreational Trails Program grants may be used for non-routine maintenance and restoration of existing trails, development and rehabilitation, trailside or trailhead facilities such as restrooms, kiosks and parking lots, construction of new trails and land acquisition for recreational trails or corridors.



“These awards will help fund some outstanding projects, including the development of new greenways and trails and more ADA-compliant facilities,” Martineau said. “We are excited to be in a position to make a variety of recreational opportunities a reality for these communities.”



Funding for RTP grants is provided by the Federal Highway Administration through the federal Safe, Accountable, Flexible and Efficient Transportation Equity Act. The Tennessee Department of Environment and Conservation administers this grant program for the state. The maximum federal share for each project is 80%, with RTP grant recipients providing a 20% match.



Grant recipients were selected through a scoring process with careful consideration given to the projects that met the selection criteria and expressed the greatest local recreation need.



To see a list of the trail projects that will be receiving grants, please click here . To learn more about the RTP grant program and other recreation or conservation-based grant programs available in the future, please click here .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Another Ski Trooper Conservationist Leaves His Legacy Behid

Stuart Phelps Dodge, another of the World War II ski troopers from the 10th Mountain Division, has passed on, leaving a huge conservation legacy in El Paso and Teller counties, Colorado.

Dodge left his conservation footprint on countless open spaces, including the Garden of the Gods, Bear Creek Regional Park, the historic Palmer Blair Bridge, and the Christian Open Space contiguous with the south end of Fountain Creek Regional Park.



He helped build systems for acquiring those open lands to benefit landowners and the state.



"If you have walked any trails around here, he probably helped preserved them in perpetuity. The city would not be what it is if it hadn't been for him," said Linda Overlin, former president of the Palmer Land Trust. "He was an instrumental part of the conservation easement movement statewide in the 1980s and 1990s to preserve open spaces."

It is amazing how much of what we grew up accepting as "normal Colorado" was shaped and affected by that group of men — in the case of David Brower, much more than just Colorado.


Programming Note: Friends Across the Mountains Telethon Tonight

Tonight the Friends of the Smokies will be hosting the 19th Annual Friends Across the Mountains Telethon to benefit Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The event has a long history as the only telethon for a national park, and has raised over $2.5 million dollars.



“This broadcast provides a great chance to learn more about the tremendous national resource that’s right in our own backyard,” said Friends of the Smokies President Jim Hart. “We are very thankful for the generous financial support that viewers provide each year to help the park.”



This year’s broadcast will take place from 7:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. on Thursday, August 15, on WLOS-TV Channel 13 in Asheville and WBIR-TV Channel 10 in Knoxville. The 19th Annual telethon is generously sponsored by Dollywood, Mast General Store, and Pilot Flying J, and SmartBank with enthusiastic volunteer support from First Tennessee Bank and Home Federal Bank.



Viewers of the Telethon will see many of the GSMNP needs which Friends of the Smokies is funding this year, more than $1.1 million to support education, conservation, recreation, and historic preservation in 2013. Current projects include continued rehabilitation of the Chimney Tops Trail by the Trails Forever crew, ongoing suppression of the hemlock woolly adelgid, and funding for Parks as Classrooms environmental education programs for more than 18,000 students.



Individuals and business owners have three different ways to make a gift:



* They can make a donation online ,



* Or, they can call Friends’ toll free telethon hotline at 877-884-6867 during the Friends Across the Mountains broadcast and make a pledge over the phone,



* Or, they can call Friends of the Smokies and ask for a donation form to be mailed to them (Waynesville NC Office, 828-452-0720; Sevierville TN Office, 865-932-4794 or 800-845-5665).





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Monsoon on the Conejos (2): Platoro y Yo










Platoro, Colorado. The bands of light at right are windshield reflections.

With the Conejos River running high and turbid, I decided to travel upstream. That meant Rio Grande Forest Road 520, which might be described as a pretty good road — if you were in Afghanistan.



Mile after pothole'd mile crept by. I would stop now and then and check the river. Still roily.



Eventually we reached the resort hamlet of Platoro (plata plus oro — weren't those early miners clever?) which always makes me think of what the Alaskan bush might look like (having never visited Alaska) — dense forest, a straggle of modest frame and log buildings, thick willows along the river.



The old lodge, currently bearing the name Sky Line Lodge, is classic, but right now its owners cannot decide whether it is a grocery store or a fly shop and so fall between two stools. (It and I make an unflattering appearance in Ed Engle's memoir Seasonal: A Life Outside. That's what happens when you hang around writers.) A UPS driver was making a delivery, and the shelves of his van were empty. Platoro is the end of the line.












The inlet to Platoro Reservoir, managed by BuRec for flood control, etc. It's quite low right now.

Above Platoro is Platoro Reservoir, and we continued past it to the Three Forks area, at the edge of the South San Juan Wilderness Area, where the stream was clearer, and I got into a few small trout while playing peekaboo with a herd of cows in the dense willows.












Rain clouds build above Platoro Reservoi.

And then it was time for the afternoon deluge, plus hail. Too much driving time versus fishing time.


Roadwork on the Gatlinburg Bypass

Great Smoky Mountains National Park officials have announced upcoming roadwork plans on the Gatlinburg Bypass involving overnight closures and single lane daytime closures beginning in mid-August.




Charles Blalock and Sons was awarded the contract to mill and resurface the Gatlinburg Bypass roadway and parking areas beginning August 19, 2013 through September 27, 2013. The Bypass will be closed to all traffic nightly from 8:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. Sunday night through Friday morning. Motorists should also expect daytime single lane closures Monday through Thursday. No work will occur during October, weekends, or holiday periods.



From November 2013 through May 2014, motorists should expect daytime single lane closures while crews complete additional improvements along the bypass including reconditioning roadway shoulders and the replacement of damaged guardrails and bridge expansion joints.



The Gatlinburg Bypass is a well-traveled road which received an interim surface treatment in 2011 that temporarily extended the life of the pavement surface. The upcoming full resurfacing treatment is expected to last 15-20 years.



“The Gatlinburg Bypass offers a unique experience for Park visitors who enjoy the scenic views of Mt. LeConte from overlooks and it also serves a need for our neighboring communities by relieving heavy traffic,” said Superintendent Dale Ditmanson. “We realize this work will cause traffic delays and we make every effort to minimize these impacts to our visitors and park neighbors by restricting closures during our busiest times.”



Park officials also remind motorists about the ongoing rehabilitation work Newfound Gap Road. Beginning on August 15, motorists should expect daytime single lane closures through Spring 2014 on 6.1 miles of the roadway from Chimney’s Picnic Area south towards Newfound Gap. No work of any kind will be permitted on federal holidays or during the month of October. Park officials expect the next and final phase of this multi-year project from Chimney’s Picnic Area to the park boundary at Gatlinburg to begin in November 2014 and be completed by November 2016.



For more information about road closures, please call the Park’s Road and Weather Information Line at 865-436-1200.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Looking for the signs of Palaeontology

Over at the Highly Allochthonous blog, Chris draws us to some signs of experimentation with palaeontology in our children. A very interesting parental advice poster! Are you checking what your child is dabbling in?









Monsoon on the Conejos (1)










We brought a screen for drying mushrooms.

The campground host's name tag said "Noah." That should have been a hint.*



M. and I set out Thursday for a camping trip to the Conejos River. I had looked at the stream flow online, and it was up from July's average, but I still had this picture in my mind from other late-summer trips: clear waters, a slight crispness in the air.



Just getting there had its moments. When we stopped in Antonito to get some snacks from the trailer, people driving by kept looking at us. Sure, Antonito seems a little insular, but why the stares?



Maybe it was because the Jeep and the pop-up trailer were liberally coated with mud.



Conditions on the Secret Cut-off Road had been worse than I had expected. Seeing the trailer in the rear-view mirror going sideways is unsettling. All I could think was, "This would be worse if I were going downhill."



We kept going and later in the afternoon reached the Forest Service campground that was our destination. About 5:30 p.m. it started raining. That would be the pattern: two-hour downpours each afternoon or evening.



But with a hot meal, wine, a good book, and a Coleman lantern, all was good.



Friday morning I got up (mist-filtered sun), put on hip boots, and walked to one of my favorite fishing spots. The river looked like chocolate milk. A tributary stream was re-enacting the June run-off.



Walking back to the campground, I picked a few mushrooms. That would be the theme.



(to be continued)



* No, there was no name tag. I am joking.


Smokies Announces New Deputy Superintendent

Great Smoky Mountains National Park Superintendent Dale Ditmanson announced that Patricia M. Wissinger has been selected as the next Deputy Superintendent. She replaces Kevin Fitzgerald, who retired earlier this year. Wissinger is currently the superintendent of Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area in Atlanta, one of the busiest recreation areas in the United States. She is scheduled to report to her new assignment in mid-September.



“Patty brings a broad base of park operational knowledge and experience to the Smokies having served as a Superintendent, Deputy Superintendent, Division Chief, and in the Regional Office,” said Park Superintendent Dale Ditmanson. “Patty has been recognized for her leadership with partners as well as employees and I look forward to having her on our team.”



Wissinger is a career National Park Service (NPS) employee who began her career in 1980 as a seasonal campground ranger on the Blue Ridge Parkway and moved up through the Park Service ranks. In addition to Chattahoochee River, she has served in management positions at the Blue Ridge Parkway, Shenandoah National Park, Cape Hatteras National Seashore, Wright Brothers National Memorial, and Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. She has served in extended acting assignments as Superintendent at Vicksburg National Military Park and Deputy Superintendent at Shenandoah National Park. She also served twice in the NPS Southeast Regional Office – once as the Region’s Chief of Partnerships for over 63 parks and once as manager for the National Heritage Area Program, including twelve areas dispersed throughout the southeastern states and the Caribbean.



Wissinger has extensive experience in building partnerships, major museum design and construction, land acquisition planning, viewshed management, road and bridge construction projects, exhibit design, educational outreach, general management planning and managing large national park visitor services. She was recognized with numerous awards including Southeast Region Superintendent's Award for Science and Resource Management Excellence and, under her leadership, Chattahoochee River NRA was recognized for Excellence in Interpretation and Education.



“Words cannot express how excited I am to join the staff, partners, volunteers and the communities of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, one of the crown jewels in our nation,” Wissinger said. “I feel like the most blessed person in the National Park Service right now. This park is unsurpassed by its natural beauty, diversity of resources, and cultural heritage. In my opinion, it is absolutely the most beautiful place on earth. I am so proud to join the committed cadre of citizens who together will protect this incredibly special place as we also connect it to a new generation of Americans to preserve and enjoy.”



A native of North Carolina, Wissinger received both a Bachelor of Science and a Masters of Public Administration Degree from Western Carolina University. She spent many years in Asheville, NC where she volunteered extensively for the Buncombe County School system, and served on the Boards of the Appalachian Consortium, the Haw Creek Neighborhood Association and the East Asheville Recreation Association. She and her husband Gordon both have a connection to the Great Smokies; he served as the Cades Cove District Ranger for five years in the 1980’s. He currently serves as a Deputy Regional Director for the NPS Southeast Region and will retire soon to join his wife in a place he “can’t wait to return to.” Patty and Gordon have five grown children between them, three of whom reside in western North Carolina, one in Colorado, and one working in Glacier National Park in Montana.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


Participation in Outdoor Activities Hits Six-Year High

Participation in outdoor recreation reached a six-year high in 2012 with 142 million Americans, ages six and older, enjoying the outdoors. That is an increase of about 800,000 outdoor participants since 2011 and equates to a participation rate of 49.4 percent. The findings are part of The Outdoor Foundation's 2013 Outdoor Recreation Participation Report, the leading report tracking American participation trends in outdoor recreation with a focus on youth and diversity.



The Outdoor Foundation's seventh annual Outdoor Recreation Participation Report helps the outdoor industry, public agencies and community organizations better understand the trends in outdoor recreation participation, enabling groups to address America's inactivity crisis and the disconnect between children and the outdoors. The report is based on an online survey of more than 40,000 Americans ages six and older and covers 114 different outdoor activities, making it the largest survey of its kind.




The study, which provides an in-depth look at youth, shows mixed results about outdoor participation among America's youngest generations. While youth and young adult participation remained steady since 2011, adolescent participation dropped. The low participation rate can be attributed to a six-percent loss in participation among adolescent girls. On the other hand, adolescent boys' participation continued to rise, adding three-percentage points since 2010.



The insights detailed in the 2013 Outdoor Recreation Participation Report are critical to national efforts seeking to understand outdoor participation and continuing to reverse America's inactivity crisis. Some of the additional findings include:



- While 13 million Americans started participating in outdoor activities in 2012, 12 million stopped. This is a net gain of one million total outdoor participants and a churn rate of 6.8 percent.



- The number of total outdoor outings increased, reaching an all-time high. Americans took 12.4 billion outdoor excursions in 2012, up from 11.5 billion excursions in 2011.



- Adventure racing grew the most over the past five years. The sport increased participation by 211 percent.



- Stand up paddling had the highest number of new participants in the past year. More than half of stand up paddling participants tried the sport for the first time in 2012.



- Almost one-quarter of all outdoor enthusiasts participate in outdoor activities at least twice per week.



- Running, including jogging and trail running, is the most popular activity among Americans when measured by number of participants and by number of total annual outings.



- Youth who do not participate in outdoor activities say they are not interested in the outdoors. For young adults, lack of time is a bigger barrier than lack of interest.



- Introducing outdoor recreation and physical activities early in life has a lasting effect. Among adults who are current outdoor participants, 75 percent had physical education and 42 percent enjoyed outdoor activities in elementary school.



- As seen in previous reports, outdoor participation is highest among Caucasians and lowest among African Americans.



- Although Hispanic Americans have one of the lowest outdoor participation rates, those who do participate go outside as often as Caucasians, who have the highest participation rate.



To download a complete copy of the 2013 Outdoor Recreation Participation Report, visit The Outdoor Foundation website .





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


My Sporadic Ritual of Cellphonicide











My flip-phone may be gone, but this shirt is forever.



It would be easy to blame the occasional destruction of cellphones on my work. If I just told people that it was dropped into a bottomless lava tube, or drowned in a Cascadian stream, or even dropped in some remote spot where the next person to see it will be an excited archaeologist (who happens to be a cousin of President Bush VI), they would believe it.



Other than one that was swampified on a wapato hunt (I'd held a camera over my head for hours, while the phone was in my pocket, in the mud, so it was a stupid waste), however, the culprit has generally been the washing machine, into which I'd thrown the phone, again in the pocket. Maybe if I'd had one of those phone holsters, accepted awkward accoutrements in the name of protecting the phone, but no, I liked the pocket of my fake Carhart work pants, the skinny one on the side that's so convenient for a phone. Two fingers reach in and chopstick the phone up, an instant of weightless apex, then it falls into my palm and the thumb flips it open. Tactile satisfaction that became one of those small rituals we don't even recognize as rituals.



That one will be no more, because after destroying my most recent phone, the cheapest phone they have now is the kind with the little keyboard that slides out. Not as fun, so far. I mean, it's not smart and there's no touch screen, so I can still embarrass my kids with it, but it's just not the same as flipping, which for someone my age is so layered in meta and ironicool. As a kid, Star Trek's communicator was the future. As an adult, the future arrived, and a huge percentage of first-calls on first-generation flip-phones included a Shatneresque pose and the words "Beam me up." Now, those times and tech are archaic (the actual flip-phone era, that is, the Trek ones still being acceptable on a certain level to younger hipsters). But I digress, and recognize that I am in way over my head trying to talk Trek.



No telling how long this phone will last. I don't think I'll miss it like the flipper, which is not all that much, to be honest, flip-phones being a flimsy substitute for the old Nokia brick.












The Brick, in Period-appropriate Resolution

Compared to the flip-ritual, the less frequent (and thus, more momentous) ritual of cellphonicide embodies much more. Like the drift into reminisce I got into above, a lamentation that the consumption economy leads always to new models, more features, more intrusion, a big shallow network in which nobody is worth more than a few seconds' attention and the ads will not cease. Killing the phone may have been an accident, but as with any religious act, retroactive imbuement with significance is allowed, and it can be ruled a sacrifice. The disdain for the dead phone, stripped and recycled (resurrected, perhaps, in some 3rd World place, but that's not my doing) is also a statement: I don't care about this gadget and its demise.



Of course, I do end up going out and getting another phone. I'm no John Henry (especially since I have no more Nokia, which oculd be used to hammer a jack). At the store, I subject the young staff who actually feel sorry for my backwardness to a cold luddite demand that they get me something that's cheap as shit and goes on my prepaid plan. No contract, no data plan, no upgraded phone. No small talk foreplay to the upsell, get me my archaic phone so I can get back to embarrassing my kids.



Losing the phone means losing the numbers stored up on its card, and though I could just ask the NSA to tell me, getting a new phone means I'll seek out people again. Contacting them some other way and asking for their number again, renewing the connections, and talking with some people whose voices I've not heard for a while when I do finally find them. It used to be easier, because I used to remember numbers instead of making my phone do it, or, if you can believe it, I would write them down. Also, there are the connections that don't continue. For one last time, I think about that person I don't think about anymore, or someone I do think about turns out to be out of reach, no number I can get at. That's the difference between nostalgia and wistfulness.



So, here I go again. My number's the same--in case you're reading this and know me--give me a call. I'll reconnect, and enjoy that. I'll celebrate the death of another phone (forgot to mention how this one went: it fell out while I was at the county landfill, never to be seen again), and shake my fist at the demons Verizon, 4g, and Smartphone. I'll have fuzzy nostaligia for old tech.



Then I'll wait til next time




The So-Called Romance of Steam










Cumbres & Toltec train on Cumbres Pass. The white cloud is steam from the whistle.

I like trains and take Amtrak rather than an airplane whenever possible, but I do not partake of the "romance of steam."



Ride of one these steam-powered trains, and you quickly understand why nineteenth-century people wore a lot of black. Once they put glass in the car windows, people then had a choice between no ventilation and breathing sooty smoke while wearing cinders too.



But maybe the fascination with steam comes from its being almost as understandable as animals.



Combine fire and water and you have steam, and then it works those big external pistons, and chuff chuff chuff, the locomotive goes down the track.



M. and I were driving up Colorado 17 on Saturday, and despite the two hours of rain at our nearby campsite the night before, she suddenly stiffened: "Is that a fire?"



No, it was the excursion train puffing away as it sat on the pass, one of the stops on its scenic interstate route.



To recreate nineteenth-century industry even better, find yourself in downtown Durango on a wintry day with a thermal inversion as that steam train leaves the station, filling street after street with coal smoke. Then multiply times fifty.


Sections of Greenbrier Road to be Closed for 10 Days

Great Smoky Mountains National Park officials will close sections of Greenbrier Road to vehicle and pedestrian traffic for road repairs from Wednesday, August 14 through Friday, August 23.



* Beginning Wednesday, August 14 through Sunday, August 18, the road will be closed just past the intersection with the road to Ramsey Cascades Trailhead. This will impact access to the Porters Creek Trail and the Brushy Mountain Trail .



* Beginning Monday, August 19, the road will be closed at the Greenbrier Ranger Station through the duration of the project ending on Friday, August 23.In addition to the two trails mentioned above, the Ramsey Cascades Trail and the Grapeyard Ridge Trail will be impacted during this phase of the repair work.




The roadway suffered significant damage following a flood event last winter when the road was completely washed out exposing underlying rock and damaging culverts. Park crews made temporary repairs this winter and will now complete the long-term solution by installing a bottomless box culvert, three circular culverts, re-grading the roadway, and adding new gravel. The bottomless box culvert design increases water handling capacity, provides unimpeded water flow, and aids fish passage.



“Greenbrier Road provides access to several popular hiking trails, backcountry campsites, picnic areas, and scenic river views. We regret the inconvenience of the closure, but believe that these repairs will help prevent flooding of the road in the future,” said Park Facility Management Chief Alan Sumeriski.



Heavy equipment will be utilized during the repair work including gravel trucks, graders, and excavators. In order to safely and efficiently accomplish the needed work, the affected road sections will be closed to pedestrians as well as vehicle and bicycle traffic throughout the duration of the project.



In addition, the Greenbrier picnic area and picnic pavilion will be closed throughout the closure along with backcountry campsite #31. Access to backcountry campsite #32 will be from Roaring Fork Road and access to campsite #33 will be from Maddron Bald Trail. For more information about closures, please call the Road and Weather Information Line at 865-436-1200.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


The National Park Service Turns 97 on August 25th

On Sunday, August 25th, the National Park Service turns 97 years old. To help celebrate, admission to all national parks will be free so that everyone can join in the festivities taking place from coast-to-coast.



“National parks belong to all Americans, and we invite everyone to join us and celebrate this special day,” said National Park Service Director Jonathan B. Jarvis. “From kite-building demonstrations at Wright Brothers National Memorial, to a river paddle at New River Gorge National River or a scenic railroad ride at Steamtown National Historic Site, America’s national parks offer something for the whole family.”



You could also plan a day of hiking at your favorite park, such as in Great Smoky Mountains , Glacier National Park , or Rocky Mountain National Park .




In partnership with the National Park Foundation, the official charity of America’s national parks, the NPS has created an online hub to help you plan your own personal National Park Service birthday trip at www.npsbirthday.org . Join the NPS to share birthday wishes or stories, pictures, or video from your latest or favorite national park adventure.



If you can’t make it to a park for the big day there are still many ways you can join the fun. The work of the National Park Service extends beyond park boundaries into communities across the country. The National Park Service works with partners to help preserve local history and create close-to-home recreational opportunities that revitalize neighborhoods and enhance the quality of life. You can visit www.nps.gov/communities/states.htm to see how they help in your community.





Jeff

Hiking in the Smokies


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